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Date: Sun, 16 Mar 1997 15:35:10 +1000To: nnews_don-l@netnews.peg.apc.org From: Don Pattenden <dpattenden@pegasus.com.au> Subject: Mornington Peninsula. Hello, Well, the itinerary I presented in my last instalment for my Melbourne to Sydney leg has already been shot to pieces. That was partly because I took a little longer than planned to complete my tour of the Mornington Peninsula, but mainly because the news I was getting from Sydney about my sister's condition was not encouraging and it was becoming increasingly evident that I would need to travel there as swiftly as possible (i.e. by some means a little swifter than pedal power) to assess the situation for myself. So that's where I am right now, at Bondi in Sydney, having come here by train. Heather is now on chemo-therapy (on a different one from the one she was on last year) and is having weekly tests & checkups. This is disappointing because a few months back the news was all good -- the tumour had been pronounced inactive & had shrunk. But just recently her friends and workmates were concerned about small lapses in concentration and occasionally rather odd behaviour. This is what to her being hospitalised briefly for tests & scans. These revealed that the tumour was indeed active again and had crossed into the left hemisphere. The good news is her blood count is positive and that she looks well and in very good spirits generally. This indicates at least that her immune system is healthy; a positive sign. I have spoken to her doctor and it appears that the next month or so will be critical. If the treatment is not effective, the detioration will be quite rapid. On the other hand, if there is a response then the improvement will be gradual. Heather has a network of close friends and relatives in Sydney to care for her and give her encouragement. So I have decided that it will be at least possible for me to complete the Melbourne-Sydney leg of my journey, resuming from where I left off -- i.e. just near Hastings on the Westernport Bay side of the Mornington Peninsul, heading for Phillip Island as my next stop. I have enjoyed being in Bondi, although I must admit that it does feel like cheating. A little voice in my head keeps telling me that I don't really deserve the sun, sand, surf, cosmopolitan atmosphere and excellent restaurants since I didn't get here by my own muscle power. I grew up in Sydney, though I've been living in Melbourne for many years, so it's still my home town in spite of the many superficial changes over the years. As fond as I am of those ocean beaches on the Mornington Peninsula, they just can't compare with the Sydney beaches. Well, back on Friday Febrary 21 I must confess that it was actually late afternoon by the time I got my bike loaded up ready for the road. This was partly because of the interruptions, the phone calls to and from Sydney, but partly also that I had gotten out of practice again. It had been a similar story when I commenced my first day of riding in Tasmania; it was around 2:30 in the afternoon by the time I left Wynyard hoping to reach Rosebury. Instead I made it to Warratah when the daylight was already fading. My load consists of: 2 large rear paniers, 2 smaller front paniers with my tent, a rolled up mat for sleeping on when camping and a small backpack (my "overflow" bag) all secured on the back packrack with those wonderful "ocker straps" (whoever invented them should be knighted). The sleeping bag goes on the front packrack with my little solar battery re-charger in front of that. That is one item that has proved to worth its weight in gold. It has ensured a supply of charged double-A batteries that I use in my radio-cassette player as well as a small torch. Incidentally if only someone would market a similar charger for tripple-A batteries I'm sure they would sell lots. But as far as I can ascertain, no such animal exists. At least, not a *small* suitable for bike riders. I can well remember that first day in Tasmnania after spending hours packing & re-packing - cramming, cramming & finding a place for all of the junk I was stuck with. When at last I sat astride the bike & wobbled off down the road I wondered how on earth I was going to keep it upright just going along the flat, let alone up hills. But somehow I managed; and hills there were a-plenty in Tasmania. A laden bicycle is of course part & parcel of touring as I'm sure anyone who's done it knows only too well. So after a while one just accepts all of the complications it brings even apart from painfully slow progress up hills. Whenever I arrive somewhere I intend to stay for a while (for the night, for lunch, or even just for a rest) the first very first thing I look around for is something suitable to lean it up against, ideally a wall, or a strong fence. When the stop is for lunch it's only after that that I seek out other requirements like shade, somewhere to sit and aesthetic surroundings. By and large I've been lucky with lunch spots, including some really delightful ones, by a river or with a marvellous view. But occasionally it happens that I find myself riding through mile after mile of farming land, with barbed wire fences all along the side of the road and not one tree. At times I've been hungry enough to settle for just about anything e.g. a small clearing in the bush near the road, but almost always something suitable appears unexpectedly, on rounding a bend. Speaking of gadgets (i.e. my battery charger) and essential items of equipment I thought I'd mention some of those that have proved quite invaluable, that it would be a tragedy to lose or leave behind. These include my little wooden spoon, certainly not an expensive item but indispensible, not only for stirring my all-important porridge (I never EVER run out of rolled oats - must have my morning porridge) but for stir fries and the like. Amazingly, this is something that most hostels seem to lack. And of course when camping, there's NO chance of borrowing one. Next, the little chamois towel that these days you can buy from any shop that sells camping gear. They are amazing - they take up no room at all in one's pack, dry in a couple of hours (or even less) and yet they get you *almost* totally dry. Some claim that they do get you dry and don't even bother with a regular towel, but I'm fussy. What they call dry and what I call dry are two different things. You can rub and rub with a chamois and yet still feel slightly damp. And anyway, you can't sunbake on a chamois on the beach. So I take along a regular towel as well. But that is just for "finishing off" so it is hardly wet at the end and easy to get dry again. Another item, the sheet that YHA (Youth Hostels) sell. It is a top sheet, bottom sheet and pillow slip all combined. It is wonderful - you can use it anywhere - in hostels, inside a sleeping bag, or, camping when nights are mild, it is sufficient in itself so the sleeping bag can go underneath for extra padding. I'd never be without one. Lastly, it's worth mentioning my little Tranjia cooker. Most cyclists know about them and have used them. They run on methylated spirits and are very reliable. They'll work in a strong wind or under just about any conditions. I've had mine for years and have become quite adept at using it for my morning coffee, my porridge and my evening meal (usually a kind of stir-fry concoction with potatoes, rice or noodles, plus whatever I can get my hands on by way of fresh veges. These days there are better cookers around - ones that run on just about any fuel, designed for alpine conditions, but these are expensive and outside consideration. So I'm quite content with my little Tranjia. Speaking of potatoes. While I was staying at the Youth Hostel at St. Marys on the East Coast of Tasmania I managed to score some Pink Eyes. The hostel is on a farm and the farmer was good enough to dig them out for me especially. In Australia the Pink Eyes grow only in Tasmania (they need a cold climate) so I've never struck them before. They are magnificent, a complete meal in themselves - yellow & waxy & firm however long you cook them. With a little oil & perhaps a few leaves of mint & they are as I say a complete meal. The farmer filled well nigh a bucket with them so I just didn't have the heart to leave any behind. I found room for them somehow, heavy laden as I already was, with some at the bottom of every panier. I lived on potatoes for the rest of the trip, eating the last of them at Devonport. But I digress; I was talking about equipment. It's worth mentioning also 2 further important accessories - plastic containers and rubber bands. Both of these have proved to be quite essential. You can get some really good screw top plastic containers of different sizes and having used them I'd never be without them for things like olive oil, sugar, coffee, salt etc etc etc. I've no doubt I'll end up with a whole stack of them by the time the trip's over. Rubber bands cost a lot less but they are just as important for all sorts of things e.g. securing plastic bags containing rolled oats or skim milk powder. I can never have too many of them - keep running out. Though cheap, the good ones are hard to come by; never thick & heavy enough. The best are the ones the posties use, but you can't buy those. There's lots more I could buy, if only I had the money. I've certainly met cyclists on the road who are much better equipped than I am. One such item is a torch that straps on the forehead - a great invention. I usually get up before dawn when I'm camping, so it would be ideal. But it will have to wait for a while. I'll just have to add items bit by bit as I go. In the meantime, I manage OK with what I've got. The arrangement of my gear in the paniers that has evolved over the weeks of touring up til now, goes something like this:-
One rear panier: mostly clothes, including towel. As well as that I usually manage to fit odds & ends I'll need during the day, especially food for lunch, at the top of the front paniers so they're easy to get at. Side pockets of the back paniers have important documents and sun screen (need plenty of that.) As for water, I carry 3 water bottles, one on the frame in its cage & the other two in pockets at the rear of the paniers. That has proved to be adequate so far, just as long as I remember to refill them at *every* opportunity. But I'm sure I'm going to need more once I reach those wide open spaces up north. Camping has its moments, both good and bad. It is a very nice feeling going to sleep in my little tent (which is working out well - I made a good choice) like a secure little cocoon. Sometimes there are pleasant sounds during the night, like tiny animals moving around in the bush when the campsite is in a nature reserve as sometimes happens. Once, and once only so far, I have gone to sleep listening the pounding of the surf. That was at the Shoreham foreshore Reserve not far from Flinders on Westernport Bay. A very nice campsite that one. Mornings can be spectacular too when camping. One of the best so far was at Wayatinah Lagoon in Tasmania (between Derwent Bridge & Ouse). I had my morning coffee just as the sun was rising over the lagoon, the water shimmering in the early light & the mist gently rising, to the accompaniment of a symphony of bird sounds; lots of them - swans & ducks & many more. But the worst part of camping is the drudge of having to pack up the tent & other equipment. What's more the mechanics of living can get very complex when it involves constant tramping around from place to place - from the tent to amenities block to barbecue area (where there is one) or from the nearest tap to the cooking area. Sometimes there's nothing at all (not even a table) to put the Tranjia on so cooking involves a lot stooping. Perishable are a pain in the bum. There are things that I miss greatly, but just can't carry e.g. milk, condiments and butter. I love butter (phooey on the chloresterol - don't care) but there's no way I can carry it with me. I usually buy buttered rolls from bakeries when there is one nearby, but otherwise my preferred substitute is to have rye biscuits & dip (usually hommus). It works well for snacks & even for lunch. I'm a condiment freak, especially chutney, but that tends to go off out of the fridge. Same goes for sambal (an Indonesian chile sauce - love the stuff!) That puzzles me because it must be a lot older than refrigeration, yet I've found that it starts to ferment after a while. If you've got any ideas on condiments that last (and are tasty) please let me know. Life would be a lot easier if only I could develop a taste for black tea. But I just don't like tea, black or white. Must have my milk coffee in the morning. And coffee made with skim milk is yuk, but I still drink it. Long Life milk is even worse though. Same goes for condensed milk which some resort to. Skim milk powder works fine in porridge, but not in coffee. I'm too fussy that's my trouble. I have a constant pathological fear of leaving things behind. Invariably it happens that shortly after leaving my overnight stopping place I begin to have nagging fears, like "Have I got my wooden spoon?" Of course, it would be unthinkable to unpack everything just to make sure, so I ride on, worrying. Because of this I tend to check, double check and triple check every place I've been in for articles - under the bunk in the hostel, or around the campsite, in the washrooms - everywhere. So far I've been lucky. I haven't lost anything. All I've ever left behind has been my towel back in Rosebury in Tasmania on only the second night. But I phoned them and they were good enough to mail it home for me, though in the meantime I had to buy another. But still I worry endlessly. Well I haven't said much about the Mornington Peninsula have I, and now I'm running out of time fast. It is now 4 PM on Sunday afteroon. I'm writing this on my sister's Macintosh in Sydney and I'm booked to return on the day train to Melbourne tomorrow (Monday). I plan to resume riding on Wednesday, returning by train to Tyab (near Hastings) & then riding to Phillip Island. From then on, I'll follow my original itinerary (though the timing is out the window) - South Gippsland, NSW South Coast, Canberra, Goulburn, Bowral & Sydney. But I'll be in constant touch with Sydney and it is still on the cards that I shall have to return here at short notice. In that event, since it means the news is not good, it will probably mean abandoning by trip until further notice & finding somewhere to stay in Sydney. (Heather's flat is too small for a longer stay than a week or so). But I remain positive. Heather has always been a battler. I really believe she'll be with us for many years yet. Back to that Friday (February 21) when I was finally packed & ready to go at 4 PM in the afternoon. Fortunately I didn't have far to ride: only from Mordialloc (my daughter's place) to Mount Eliza on the top of the Mornington Peninsula (Port Phillip Bay side) where I was to stay the night with a friend. I used to live in Mount Eliza so I know it well. I made it easily before dark. After that, it went like this:-
From there I arranged to take the day train to Sydney & that's where I am. The Youth Hostel at Sorrento is the only hostel accommodation on the whole of the Mornington Peninsula but it is an excellent and I can recommend it. The facilities are good, and the proprietors (Ian & Margaret Bell) are very helpful & have an excellent knowledge of the local area. That's partly why I stayed there for 3 nights, but also because I just love Sorrento. I used to go there a lot when I was living in Mount Eliza, but only for day trips (an hour each way in the bus). The ocean beach there (the "Back Beach" as they call it to distinguish it from the Bay beach (with "flat" water) is my favorite beach accessible from Melbourne. It's only just accessible though, so you just can't compare it with Bondi, an inner city suburb. Still, in many ways Sorrento is more picturesque than Bondi just because of its remoteness. All in all I very much enjoyed my week of touring around the Mornington Peninsula. It was essentially a detour because it didn't really get me any closer to Sydney, but none the less it was for me a "farewell to Melbourne" because, however things turn out, I won't be back there for quite a while and that Peninsula is one of my favourite haunts from way back. Well then, I am optimistic that when I return to Sydney this time it will be by pedal power. So I'm not sure when I will next have the opportunity to send email. Possible in Canberra. But then you just never know when someone with a computer (and an Internet connection) is likely to appear. And Cyber Cafes are popping up everywhere. Sincere thanks to those who have sent me email and wished me well. I have also had an offer of accommodation in Mittagong for which I am very grateful. I've only had one negative message. One kind gentleman hoped I would pull my hamstring muscle and "the agony for others would cease". Thanks mate. Right now I must start packing. Don. |